Complete Guide to Pruning Rose Bushes

There aren't many things more beautiful than a healthy, well-maintained rose bush that has reached full bloom, and the rosarian, or rose enthusiast, will tell you that the one of the secrets to ultimate rose success is knowledgeable pruning.

I will concede that rose bushes are capable of surviving very rough treatment. After all, don't most gardeners of the 'mow, blow and go' variety prune with hedge trimmers? Having said that, it must also be said that skillful pruning will produce very different results from those of the mad gardener and his in-artful hedge trimmer.

Correct pruning is essential to maintaining the attractive, full shape of a rose bush. Proper pruning also promotes growth of new shoots and buds which translates into more blooms, and isn't that the 'paycheck' for diving into the stickers up to your elbows?

Another less flashy, but equally important, reason to prune your roses is that it prevents fungal diseases. In fact, the open form of a skillfully pruned rose bush aids in air circulation which helps prevent mildew and other rose enemies.

In order to achieve the best results from your pruning efforts, take a moment to review these basic rules for making pruning cuts:

1. Cut on the correct angle. Make the cut on a 45 degree angle and cut 1/4" above the leaf bud, slanting the cut parallel to the bud. Remember: If you cut too close to the bud, it will prevent growth from the bud, and if you cut too far away from the bud, the remaining cane length will die off and you will be left with a length of ugly, dead growth.
2. Be sure the cut is sharp and clean. A frayed cut will leave the rose bush open to attack from pests and disease. Always use sharp pruning shears or loppers to make your cuts. If you end up with a frayed cut, re-make the cut above the closet outward facing bud.
3. Choose an outward facing bud. Remember that one of the goals in pruning is to control the appearance of the bush while allowing light and air circulation into the center of the rosebush. To accomplish this, make your cuts above outward facing buds. Cuts made above inward facing buds will encourage straggly shoots to grow from the center of the bush!

Thankfully, I am a better gardener than I am a photographer, but I have set the photos up so you can click for a better look.

General Maintenance Pruning is intended to remove growth that would either draw strength away from the rose bush or invite disease.

1. One such type of growth, in gardening vernacular, is known as a sucker. A sucker is an unattractive and weak shoot that grows from the trunk, crown, or root of a plant that drains the energy of the host plant. Roses are notorious for producing suckers that have grown from the roots. Root suckers must be removed by digging down and pulling them off of the roots.
2. Cut away straggly, thin canes that are unable to support blooms.
3. Remove crossed canes or canes that rub against one another by completely removing the smaller of the two.
4. Finally, prune away dead or diseased canes by cutting lower until the cane is green or white on the inside.

As a general rule, rose bushes should be pruned in the early spring when the canes first begin to grow. If you prune in the fall, the new shoots will be killed by the first frost.

There are two exceptions to the general rule:

The first exception will be for roses that are grown in very cold areas where the winters are severe. In this case, you will want to wait until mid to late spring, and it goes without saying, ---but I'll say it anyway--- always avoid pruning in freezing weather. Remember to cut back all frost-damaged canes.

The second exception is for warm climate areas. In these areas, you will want to prune during the absolute coolest months. This will give the bush some time to rest before it starts blooming again.

Once all of the straggly, dead or diseased growth has been removed, you will want to perform moderate pruning of the main canes by cutting them back to about 1/3 of the cane's original height. Make the cut just above the nearest, outward facing bud.

Cut-back pruning is necessary for all of the following varieties:

• Floribundas
• Grandifloras
• Hybrid Teas
• Old-fashioned shrub roses
• Species roses

Older or neglected roses will have an unattractive form and will not produce as many blooms. In order to reinvigorate the plant, you will want to prune a little more extensively. This technique, known as "hard pruning," gives you the opportunity to re-shape the bush.

New rose bushes also require that you prune shorter than normal because it forces the shorter cane to grow back stronger. New roses should be pruned to about 8 inches just before or just after planting. If your new rose is already about 8 inches, just cut the cane tip

• Dead Heading: Removing flowers that are dead or have lost their vigor.
• Suckers: An unsightly shoot that grows from the root, crown or trunk of a host plant.
• Pruning Shears: A scissor-like tool used to cut small branches, stems or canes. Also used for dead heading spent flowers.
• Loppers: A long-handled gardening tool that is used for cutting medium sized branches.
• Pruning Saw: A saw that is designed specifically for cutting small branches and limbs. They are designed with a slight curve, and the teeth on the blade are ideally sized for gripping the branch and holding its place while cutting.
• Striated Wood: Striated wood will have long grooves that run parallel to one another down the length of the cane.
• Hard Pruning: Aggressive pruning that leaves only three or four canes that are between 8 to 12 inches in length.
• Moderate Pruning: Annual pruning required for healthy, well-maintained rose bushes, where no more than about 1/3 to 1/2 of the bush is pruned.
• Leaf Bud: A little 'bump' on a plant stem that contains a cluster of undeveloped leaves.
• Vase Shape: A well-rounded, open form.